Cheval Blanc Peter Knogl

Switzerland is a developed country known for its high quality stuffs in many aspects - competitive & efficient, world class infrastructure, top notch education and health care etc. Logically, it should be  like Germany in terms of the food too with ten or more 3-star establishments or at least half of them. In reality, there were only 3 of them and the latest one was Cheval Blanc which received the red guide book highest honor in the 2016 edition of the Switzerland Guide. It's been a 'trend' that more and more of top dining places are located in the hotel. Cheval Blanc is the flagship restaurant of the hotel Les trois rois (a member of Swiss deluxe hotels). The fate of the restaurant turned around in 2007 since the arrival of the gifted chef de cuisine named Peter Knogl, the son of a Bavarian farmer. Chef Knogl cut his teeth in Munich and Aschau im Chiemgau under the tutelage of the German-Italian chef Heinz Winkler. He patiently and slowly rose in the kitchen's position. There, he learned a lot about using only the finest produce, discipline, develop his style in which the ingredients should not change their taste.

I went to Cheval Blanc for lunch with my spouse during the early Autumn. The restaurant was located on the ground floor. As we entered the hotel, we could easily recognized the hostess and she escorted us to the main dining room. We were the first guests to arrive so we had the time to admire the Cheval Blanc's interiors by ourselves. The lavish dining room was not overly large with a very high ceiling; there were only 10 tables or so that could cover about 30 people. The dark wooden floor was partially covered with carpet; it was complemented by several classic crystal chandeliers, white and tall candles at each table and fine paintings on the wall. The large purple drapes (the chairs were covered in purple color too) were opened to allow natural lights entering the restaurant while at the same time, guests could enjoy the view of the Rhine river. Consistent to the grand hotel, the Cheval Blanc dining room also radiated an old-style luxury. As far as the food's concerned, both of us ordered the full tasting menu while I also added some dishes from the a la carte menu. The bread, baked daily in house, was good especially I liked the olive and tomato bread.   

Le Menu des Rois (+ a few extra dishes*)

Amuse-bouches for Culinary introductions

Huîtres creuses / ponzu / pomme vert (Crinkled-shelled Oyster with ponzu and green apple) - The briny and juicy oyster was complemented by soy-flavor & sweet ponzu as well as sharp green apple. A tasty, balanced and refreshing amuse-bouche.
Macaron / foie / orange / Garam masala (Duck liver in macaron shape with orange puree and garam masala spice) - The foie gras was flavorful; it went well together with delicate & 'warm' masala and rather acidic orange. One small byte but full of enjoyment.

Espuma jalapeno / Carabinero (Jalapeno mousse with Scarlet shrimp) - The subtle peppery jalapeno foam was beautifully combined with fresh and 'sweet' carabinero - neither element was too dominant, just nice! 
Textures de champignons / Pata negra (Mushrooms in different textures with Iberian ham) - The mushroom cream was intense and earthy in contrast to crisp tuile as the base and subtle marinated mushroom. The pata negra crunch was savory and smooth - generated some texture differences; another tasty nibble.

Foie gras de canard, confit de figues, gelée de thé Earl Grey et cassis (Duck foie gras served with fig confit, jelly of Earl Grey tea and cassis) - Creative duck liver dish in a small portion is always good. The foie gras was smooth and delicious; it was balanced by the sweet fig confit and slightly acidic cassis. Spread this delicate foie gras on the light brioche to fully enjoy this tasty appetizer. The preparation might be different, but there's almost always a foie gras dish on the menu.

Noix de Saint Jacques, carotte et Vadouvan (Scallops served with carrot and Vadouvan) - The lightly cooked scallop was of outstanding quality: plump, tender and naturally sweet. It was accompanied by fresh carrot and seasoned with vadouvan (fermented spices) having interesting + complex taste & aroma. A very good classical dish with modern touch.

*Hamachi Japonais, radis, avocat et miso (Japanese Hamachi served with radish, avocado and miso) - I didn't usually like a cold appetizer, but this one was different. The carefully seasoned and fresh Japanese yellowtail kingfish was moist, clean & buttery. It was beautifully enhanced by the crisp radish, nutty avocado & savory miso. The combination of the sides produced plenty of vibrant flavors with pleasant texture contrasts - really refreshing! 

*Ravioli au jaune d'œuf, épinards à la crème et truffe blanche d'Alba (Egg yolk ravioli served with spinach cream and white Alba truffle) - Obviously a very Italian recipe; egg yolk with shaved white truffle were delightful. The runny orange yolk inside the thin pasta was in harmony with the warm & creamy spinach. The Alba truffle was truly an indulgence - pungent, earthy and delicious - brought this simple ravioli dish to the next level. Glad that I ordered this extra dish ..

Filet de Rouget, écailles croustillantes, safran, ail noir et vinaigrette de tomates (Filet of Red Mullet and its crispy scales served with saffron, black garlic and vinaigrette of tomatoes) - The red Mullet flesh was juicy, a bit firm and nicely absorbed the saffron sauce and vinaigrette; the scales were enjoyably crunchy whereas the garlic's cream and aroma gave this dish an extra 'dimension' - a terrific dish with Asian influences.

*Ris de veau rôti, yuzu, poivre et crème de champignons (Roasted Sweetbread served with yuzu, pepper and cream of mushrooms) - The sweetbread was cooked until golden and a bit crispy on the outside; the result was a tender texture with mild flavor. It was enhanced by a sauce made of veal jus and yuzu. There were shiitake mushroom and 'bok choy' on the sides - a very decent dish with some acidic notes. I picked this because ris de veau was one of Chef Knogl's favorite ingredients.

Selle de Chevreuil de la Styrie, mousseline de céleri et sauce Rouennaise (Styrian saddle of Venison served with mousseline of celery and Rouennaise sauce) - The thick Austrian venison was slightly firm but still smooth, earthy and a bit gamey yet tasty. The celery mousse would carefully tone down the richness from the concentrated Rouennaise sauce. Overall, a solid (red) meat course.

Chariot de fromage frais et affiné de Maître Antony à Ferrette (Selection of soft and hard cheeses from Maître Antony in Ferrette) - I had Saint-Nectaire (fruity aroma and slightly sweet), a cheese from Bernese Jura (from raw milk with a hint of nutty flavor),  Tamie (soft, creamy with robust taste) and Abbaye cheese from Pyrenees (firm and mild). The cheese was accompanied by dark & rye bread - a decent cheese variety.

Poire, nougat et cacahuètes (Pear, nougat and peanuts) - Fruity, soft and fresh ice cream was combined with something sweet and thick (nougat) as well as nutty and crunch (peanuts). Easy to eat dessert and enjoyable especially after some intense red meat.

*Café, muscovado et framboise (Coffee, moscovado and raspberry) -  The Mauritius sugar was probably the most interesting one - unrefined, complex and rich. It was brought together with some aromatic and bitter coffee mousse as well as tart, fresh and rather sweet raspberry sorbet. Although not spectacular, it was a good and fun dessert.

The petit fours were superb especially the mousse on a spoon (mango with passion fruit and lemongrass) and some chocolate truffles (yuzu, caramel and dark). Our degustation menu was accompanied by half-bottle of a local red wine: 2013 Vinattieri Ticinesi Ligornetto Merlot - Medium body & acidity, balanced, fruity (cherries, plum and blackberries), a bit spicy with medium finish. A nice local merlot that went reasonably well particularly with my venison and sweetbread. Overall, the service at Cheval Blanc was good but somewhat uneven at times. For example, the sommelier (might be the assistant) seemed to be confused and not too focused during our lunch; in a couple of occasions, our glasses were not refilled when the volume was low and once when he poured, it dripped a bit on the outer surface of the glass. Then, there was another waiter who claimed that he used to work at one of Alain Ducasse gastronomy restaurants ... from the body language and communication, this full-size man lacked finesse and elegance usually shown by the staffs at any Ducasse fine dining places. I went to the restrooms twice and both times, my napkin was never replaced with a new one. On the other hand, there were 2 charming gentlemen, who also often took care of our table, delivering excellent service with good sense of humor and not overly formal but very professional. Furthermore, they displayed genuine interests to the guests without being obtrusive. Near the end of our lunch, Peter Knogl came out and greeted every table, spent sometimes with the guests without being rush to return to the kitchen. 

With this meal, I managed to complete all of the Switzerland's 3-star restaurants within one week. If I had to pick one place in this land of milk and honey, in terms of the food only, Cheval Blanc was actually my favorite dining place (marginally better than Restaurant Crissier). Peter Knogl's classical style generally fit my taste well. Not only that, he also modernized his cuisine a bit by adding some international flavors such as some Asian influences or mild Mediterranean. His cooking was all about the perfect balance among finest ingredients, authentic inherent flavors of the produce, and elegant skills + technical finesse ... all of these culminating to delicious dishes with astounding sauce. It's never about following the latest food trend in instagram. "Simple" and consistently (nearly) perfect! Ideally, it would not be the only time I savored Chef Knogl's creations. For pictures, you can see at this link: Cheval Blanc Oct '17    

Food (and Wine): 96 pts

Service (and Ambiance): 93 pts

Overall: 95/100

Le Grand Restaurant Paris

Once upon a time, Alain Ducasse had a very capable right hand man (besides Franck Cerutti) that some might have argued that he could be better than Ducasse himself and his named is Jean-François Piège. Jean-François Piège had been working at the flagship of Alain Ducasse restaurants in Monaco and Paris for more than a decade before he became the Executive Chef of Hotel de Crillon in particular in charge of Les Ambassadeurs. After he left Le Crillon in 2009, he was free to venture on his own. His status as a celebrity chef was more and more apparent. He showed up in many magazines and television shows in addition to running some restaurants including a gastronomy restaurant at Thoumieux. Eventually in late Summer of 2015, chef Piège opened and ran his own restaurant called "Le Grand Restaurant". Awards kept coming ever since including a 2-star Michelin and chef of the year awards from Pudlo and Champerard. It's quite obvious that the red guide highest accolade would be his main objective for this restaurant.

Due to my earlier commitment and rain, I arrived kinda late (nearly 9:30 PM) at Le Grand Restaurant. Contrary to its name, Le Grand Restaurant was actually a small and stylish restaurant with only 25-cover. It was hidden in the small side street, not too far from the Elysee Palace. The restaurant's unique feature near the entrance was its glass window showing the open kitchen with plenty of the staffs in plain white. As I entered the restaurant, not only the maitre d' greeted me, but also many of the Jean-François Piège's kitchen team. However, the dining room was (very) low-lit in contrast to the bright open kitchen made from solid black and white marble. I could not appreciate the dining room's elegant design until after everyone left. The most striking aspect was clearly the dramatic & majestic black and white ceiling, followed by the sparkle of Baccarat lights as well as thick carpet whose pattern was similar to the dining room's glass ceiling. This refined decor with comfortable and cozy atmosphere was done by Gulla Jonsdottir, an Icelandic interior designer.  

For the food, I selected the degustation menu - 3 courses plus cheese & dessert - accompanied by (surprisingly generous) wine pairing. The meal started with some bread with butter and a few nibbles such as crispy beef with pickled jelly, parfait bread with olive and parmesan, pigeon egg with red wine etc. Then followed by the "real stuffs" ...

Mes Cuissons Mijote Moderne (Chef's Tasting Menu)
 
Caviar Daurenki Tsar Impérial servi sur une pomme soufflée croquante, crème foisonnée d'extraits de crustacés en chaud et froid, bouillon toasté 
(Daurenki Tsar Imperial Caviar part 1 served on top of an egg-shaped potato souffle with some potato cream inside) - The potato souffle was crisp and light with velvety potato & shellfish cream inside. It went very well with a dollop of caviar (carefully prepared with vodka and lemon) which was briny & buttery with nutty flavor. A "pop" of this firm & farmed Daurenki caviar met with delicate potato were simply stunning. To avoid any mess, I recommend to consume it in one byte
(Daurenki Tsar Imperial Caviar part 2 served with crusted cream of hot and cold shellfish / langoustine extracts jelly) - The shellfish emulsion was complex and smooth in contrast to the caviar's richness and texture; a lovely combination

Accompanied by wine: Chablis Premier Cru 2014 (floral aroma, golden color, crisp, good minerality and lively palate)

Langoustines de belle taille cuites dans du beurre noisette, marinière liée de fleurs de capucines, fines feuilles des pinces soufflées (Large size Langoustine cooked in hazelnut butter with mariniere sauce, white wine mixed with onions, herbs etc., and nasturtium flowers) - Paris is the heaven of exceptional langoustine dishes. Here, the succulent, fresh and sweet big scampi were perfectly executed - superb! It was enhanced by the delicious & balanced green buttery sauce and perfumed by the capucine's leaves and flowers. There were finely chopped young mango below that nicely absorbed the sauce and acted as "rice" to give some texture contrast. Langoustine seemed to be Chef Piege's specialty, so try to order one whenever you eat at his restaurant

Accompanied by wine: Meursault 2013 (medium acidity and minerality, fruity, subtle finish)

Grillotee sur des coques de noix, Ris de veau de lait, cepes de pin au four, excudat de cuisson infuse des aiguilles (The veal, slowly grilled over walnut shells, was served with baked pine mushrooms, walnut and mashed potatoes) - The veal was prepared in 2 forms: soft sweetbread and tender rack / 'steak' - both were divine and flavorful. The veal was also lacquered with the walnut to gave the meat some smoky and nutty taste. The dish also came with caramelized veal's jus, cepes mousseline and walnut highlighting the Autumn's flavors - a very satisfying main course

Accompanied by wine: the sommelier kindly gave me 2 different wines for tasting
-Chorey-Les-Beaune 2014 Burgundy (medium body, plenty of acidity, bright red, medium tannin, a bit too young but a decent pairing for the veal)
-Bandol 2008 Provence (dark berries & some spices, full body, soft tannin, bright acidity, smooth with medium length; liked this more than the pinot noir)

Brie de Meaux fondant - The cheese (a combination of brie and mont d'or) was processed in certain ways and served with refined celery. The cheese's taste and smell were rather weak and the celery yielded interesting flavor variation. The normal & regular cheese, served at multi-level wooden platforms, would probably be better than this one

Accompanied by wine: I forgot the detail but it was a wine from Loire Valley having creamy texture

Blanc-manger coulant - It was definitely the finest and most delicious blanc-manger I've ever eaten. It was pristine and chilled with very soft texture; inside, it had a runny & smooth vanilla cream and at the top, there was a thin & crisp yellowish caramel disc. I didn't notice any unpleasant 'eggy' smell or taste here. It was simply perfect and showcased Chef Piege's artistry workmanship. Bravo! This pre-dessert was even better than my real dessert next

Millefeuille vanille, rhubarbe au four et givree (Vanilla Napoleon, thousand layers puff pastry, served with baked and frosted rhubarb) - The aromatic millefuille was relatively thick with minimal vanilla cream hence failing to tame the rhubarb's sour taste. Except with the help of smooth vanilla ice cream, I only experienced sourness from the mille-feuille; flavor-wise, it was not as tasty as I initially had expected though the texture was good

Accompanied by wine: Muscat 2016 (naturally sweet and aromatic, a good pairing for the rhubarb)

In addition to the usual petit four, the pastry team provided this caramelized pumpkin with hay ice cream. The coarse pumpkin was sweet and flavorful, in contrast to the delicate and lightly tart hay ice cream. The food might not be perfect, but Jean-François Piège pushed his creativity and often the boundary of creating modern French cuisine with some flair. Dishes were generally pure / not pretentious, harmonious, and delicious with careful attention to details. I could sense that chef Piège devoted lots of energy and emotion in creating every dish. The service was competent with fine pace (never felt rushed in spite of my late arrival) and the atmosphere was relaxed. The front staffs were a bit 'calculative' yet gracious, friendly and worked efficiently although I never noticed they spent a lot of times chatting with the guests - many of them were locals celebrating special occasions. I look forward to finding out what Le Grand Restaurant will deliver in the next few years. I think 3-star it's not impossible for the chef-owner, latest when Jean-François Piège is in his early 50's. Here are the pictures of my meals: Grand Restaurant Oct '17

For nostalgia's sake, these were Chef Piège's creations I savored during his days at Le Crillon: les ambassadeurs 2007

Food (and Wine): 94 pts

Service (and Ambiance): 93 pts

Overall: 93.5/100

L'Hotel de Ville Franck Giovannini

Restaurant de l'Hotel de Ville at Crissier, a lovely suburb near Lausanne, has been synonymous with top quality dining place serving French cuisine. Fredy Girardet was the only non-French chef selected by Gault-Millau as chef of the century in 1996. Attaining Michelin's 3-star award was certainly not an issue. Despite his stature, Chef Girardet would spend most of his time in the kitchen managing and supervising his team. The strong tradition continued when Philippe Rochat took over the restaurant, followed by Benoit Violier. Chef Violier's sudden death in early 2016 was shocking and unfortunate especially when one month earlier La Liste had declared l'Hotel de Ville as the world's best restaurant. Franck Giovannini, the right hand man and close friend of Chef Violier, was the most logical choice to lead this historical and elite institution during the transition period. Chef Giovannini has proved himself that he was a worthy successor by successfully maintaining the 3-star award as well as receiving Gault Millau's latest chef of the year award.

I was lucky to have eaten at this place about a decade ago when Chef Rochat was the leader. The la liste award 'encouraged' me to return to this place and it finally took place in Fall 2017. Given that l'Hotel de Ville has managed to retain its prestigious awards, I had no doubt that I would have a wonderful meal. It was a sunny day in October and I was seated (again) in the main dining room that could accommodate up to 25 people. The interior design was fundamentally quite similar to my 1st visit - elegant, spacious and comfortable. The natural light was very pleasant. This restaurant has more than 50 people working at the kitchen and the front team combined. It meant that the ratio of staff to its guest is nearly 1 to 1. The hospitality was, as expected, impeccable. My maitre d' and other staffs were helpful, polished and friendly. In addition, they're also flexible in fulfilling guests' needs. For example, my lunch time was rather limited, hence I was unable to order the big degustation menu. But, I was also not willing to do the surprise menu as there were several dishes I wanted to try. At the end, after a short discussion, I was allowed to design my own tasting menu. My meal looked like as follow,

Oursins violets des pêches Atlantiques cuisinés au Champagne jeunes fenouils croquants à l'Impérial (Atlantic purple Sea urchins lightly cooked in Champagne and served with spicy fennel) - The sea urchin 'veloute' was neither rich nor cloying - a bit weak in flavor compared to its raw form. However, the briny caviar and sweet + perfumy fennel helped elevate the uni. The intention and presentation were great but it was a bit too 'complicated or manipulative' that it lost the oursins' intense & pure flavors

Oeuf en surprise à l'italienne aux Truffes Blanches d'Alba (Italian surprise Egg with white Alba truffles) - It was one of the specialties of Chef Philippe Rochat. The perfectly cooked egg (lightly poached) was hidden under the al dente spaghetti dome. The Alba truffle had the right impact in fragrance and some (deep) flavor in the creamy sauce. Egg + pasta + white truffle with delicious sauce was simply outstanding. I could've easily consumed another portion of this dish

Accompanied by wine: 2016 La Maison de Moulin (with sauvignon blanc grape, from the Vaud vineyard area, generating 'explosive' flavor, fresh, and having a bit of acidic finish)

Ravioles végétales de Bolets et Chanterelles aux flocons de chou-fleur, céleri cuit et cru au Vin Jaune (Wild Porcini and Chanterelle mushroom ravioli powdered with cauliflower flakes and celery served on vin jaune cream) - The earthy raviolis were slightly firm with woody and tasty Fall mushrooms. The crunchy cauliflower and celery interacted well with the ravioli and the delicate soup + "yellow wine" sauce - very pleasant

Belles Noix de Saint-Jacques juste poêlées aux agrumes parfumées à la mélisse (Scallops seized and served with seasonal vegetables and a lemon balm sauce) - The pan-fried scallop was plump, a bit crisp outside and tender + moist + sweet inside. It worked in harmony with the somewhat sour yellow sauce, made of lemongrass and citrus, as well as green seasonal veggie on top. Simple and delightful 

Accompanied by wine: 2016 Petite Arvine Les Cretes (fruity and rather aromatic, some mineral, smooth with balanced taste)

Cœur de Filet de Bœuf des bords du Léman juste grillé au poivre vert, aubergines et courgettes rondes à l’origan (Local tenderloin Beef fillet grilled with green peppercorns and served with aubergines and oregano flavored round courgettes) - Similar to its wine, Switzerland has many high quality local produce (such as this beef) in limited amount that's usually only accessible domestically. The flavorful tenderloin was perfectly executed - still pink, slightly 'beefy' and tender in the middle - while the outside was crispy and kinda salty. The green peppercorn sauce was creamy and delicious. The side dishes like crisp potatoes, zucchini and eggplant went well with the 'steak'

Lièvre à la Royale (Hare a la Royale) - Historically, this restaurant had unique interpretation of this classic dish. The confit of the hare was carefully cooked for 6 hours with red wine, shallots etc until it became soft / very tender. The wild rabbit meat was covered with dried mushroom powder to show texture contrast. The velvety sauce was strong yet not too overpowering. The portion, the lighter preparation and the cooking for this dish were simply perfect for me

Accompanied by wine: 2014 red wine made of Cornalin grapes - I forgot to write down the red wine's name, but the tasting note said it was 'heavy', strong, very fruity. It should be more elegant as it aged and it was an excellent companion for my hare dish

Douillon de Chocolat Pur Caraïbecorsé à l’Arabica, amandes torréfiées légèrement citronnées (Caribbean dark chocolate tube filled with Arabica coffee cream and almonds) - Chocolate-based dessert was always a safe choice when I was not sure which one to order. The dark chocolate was smooth with lovely bitter flavor and good texture. The coffee generated pleasant aromas with delicate flavor while the almond gave some crunchy textures - really solid

Friandises - Mini size of delicacy / confection. Both the small mont blanc and cassis were lovely. In addition, I was also given coconut marshmallow, bailey chocolate and peanut chou. Even the sorbet were well executed and delicious. I had mango-passion (refreshing and could function as a 'palate cleanser') and caramel (flavorful ,smooth with some crunchy peanut)

All of the dishes were carefully executed with great culinary technique and using superb ingredients. They were all pleasure to all of our senses - delicious with attractive presentation. Whether preparing for fish, seafood, meat or sweets, the kitchen delivered high quality and very satisfying dishes consistently. The wine by the glass that I requested specifically to be as local as possible was well-selected and matched relatively well with the food. Chef Franck Giovannini and Madame Brigitte Violier lead the team by example. Chef Giovannini diligently checked all the dishes and greeted guests near the end of the meal. He would be more than happy to listen to any direct feedback from his guests. Mrs. Violier not only greeted her customers upon entering the restaurant, sometimes she would not hesitate to pull chairs, talk to them or clear dishes. L'Hotel de Ville has stood up to its stellar reputation for decades and once again, I witnessed the restaurant's outstanding performance by having another memorable meal. You could check the meal's pictures here: L'Hotel de Ville Oct '17
For some historical comparison, my old meal here under Philippe Rochat - l'hotel de ville 2008 

Food (and Wine): 96 pts

Service (and Ambiance): 94 pts

Overall: 95.5/100

Taillevent Alain Soliveres

Taillevent is a Paris icon and one of the most important landmarks in the history of French haute cuisine. The restaurant was found by Andre Vrinat in 1946 and named after the nickname of a legendary chef from the 14th century called Guillaume Tirel. Taillevent was identical with 3-star michelin especially when Claude Deligne was leading the kitchen while Jean-Claude Vrinat (Andre's son) was often perceived as the finest maitre d'hotel in France, if not the whole Europe. However, things changed fast when in 2007, Taillevent lost its third star and Mr. Vrinat passed away in early 2008 due to lung cancer. In spite of these challenges, Taillevent has been doing relatively well. Under Alain Soliveres (the current chef de cuisine since 2002), it comfortably keeps the 2-star status though everyone here certainly works very hard to reclaim Michelin's highest honor. After more than a decade of indulging and appreciating various gastronomy food around the world (mainly in Europe and Asia), I eventually decided to visit this famous dining institution last month. As I was looking at the menu, the staffs brought in a small plate of Gougeres (Comte cheese-flavored choux pastry). It was a very good nibble, served warmed with light choux and containing pleasant cheese flavor. In less than 10 minutes, I made up my mind and ordered the seasonal tasting menu - it was supposed to be the last week of Morel mushrooms.

Menu Asperges & Morilles

Crispy Langoustine with sweet and sour sauce - The amuse-bouche at Taillevent displayed some Asian influence. It was a tasty Dublin bay prawn with delicate & sweet 'meat'. The sauce, having a hint of spiciness, was fine

Asperges Vertes d'Anjou, Gelée de Verjus et Caviar Osciètre (Green Asparagus from Anjou, served with Verjus jelly and Oscietra Caviar) - The asparagus was crisp yet tender; it's delectable without any bitter flavor. The acidic verjus jelly (acted like a refined vinegar 'sauce') and briny caviar enhanced the overall flavor of the dish. The kitchen truly thoughtfully prepared all elements here and the presentation was exquisite

Accompanied by wine: 2014 Domaine Didier Dagueneau, Blanc Fumé de Pouilly - a dry white wine from Loire Valley. It was fresh, medium-bodied with distinctive smell and a bit complex texture-wise. A good pairing with my vegetable dishes

Asperges Blanches Angevines aux Saveurs Printanières (White Asparagus from Angevine farm, served in Spring seasonal flavors) - The cooked white asparagus was a bit mild and slightly sweet; texture-wise, it was delicate (thus, I like using a meat knife to cut through and eat it). The overall flavor of this dish was intensified by watercress 'sauce', parmesan and some seasonal vegetables

Homard Bleu Sauté a Cru, Morilles Blondes et Coquillages (Blue Lobster in "browned" jus served with yellow Morel mushrooms and Shellfishes) - The lobster and morels were carefully executed resulting in delicious dish. I really liked the meaty and tender lobster's claw. The shellfishes were alright while the mushrooms were 'nutty', meaty and tasty. The sauce, mainly derived from the lobster jus, was stronger than I expected but balanced by fresh herbs juice on the side; very satisfying

Accompanied by wine: 2008 Domaine Didier Dagueneau, Pouilly Fume - more complex than the one I drank above, but balanced & buttery. It's full bodied, dry, mineral with acidity

Turbot Sauvage en Tronçon, Asperges Vertes et Morilles Blondes Asperges Vertes et Morilles Blondes à Peine Crèmes (Wild Turbot cooked on the bone served with Green Asparagus and Yellow Morels in a slice of 'cream') - The turbot was perfectly cooked and simply marvelous. Keeping the 'middle' bone and the fat added unique & delicious flavor to the already wonderful fish. The delectable sauce was made of white wine + the fish bone. The morels and asparagus were good but "the king of fish" here just outshone all other ingredients. My favorite dish from the tasting menu!

Faisselle aux Fruits Exotiques, Parfait a la Passion et Citron Vert (Kind of 'strained' Fresh cheese and Exotic fruits served with Passion fruit mousse and caviar Lime) - This dessert has everything and it's a good option especially for the Spring season. Sweet. sour, & fresh flavors; creamy & crisp texture. For maximum enjoyment, consumed a few things together and I had no problem to wipe clean this dessert in a very short time

Petit four - It's often an after-thought as served towards the end, but I had to admit the pastry team took them seriously. Canele, chou cream, mango tart and the chocolate were delicious. They're accompanied by the complimentary Cognac petite champagne from the house. A nice way to end a very good meal

The wine list was very extensive and somewhat daunting, but a few of them was reasonably priced. If you're bored or wine lover, flipping trough the Taillevent's 'carte du vin' was an enjoyable activity by itself. The restaurant's building was apparently a former private mansion of the Duc de Morny. It had a classy entrance. The interior design of the dining room was elegant yet discreet and the ambiance was both restrained and comforting. I was seated at the Lamennais dining room with wooden panels, lush carpets and modern artworks; the natural light was minimal here. Taillevent's 2 main dining rooms were relatively big (they could comfortably accommodate 60+ people). However, since it's pretty quiet during my lunch time, I was seated in the sofa booth that normally would be used for 4 diners. The service, led by Jean-Marie Ancher (a former right hand man of Mr. Vrinat), was polished and smooth in the old school fashion way. Napkins were replaced whenever you left your table and water was constantly refilled. All the front staffs delivering the hospitality were gentlemen. They're competent, respectful and helpful but don't expect to have much engaging conversation. The clientele was diverse; in my dining room, more than half of them did not speak French. Similar to other Parisian top restaurants, wearing a tie was no longer mandatory and a jacket was only encouraged during lunch but required for dinner. Overall, it was a very good meal in many aspects and I wish Taillevent's team all the best in the pursue of regaining the 3rd "macaron". I think they have a chance ... Here are the dishes' photos: Taillevent May '17  

Food: 94 pts

Service: 94 pts

Overall: 94/100